January 15, 1981

Dear Mom and Dad,

Finally saw the "pyramints" as John calls them-this afternoon-probably our last day in Egypt. It has been an extraordinary vacation-particularly our trip on the Nile. We've thoroughly enjoyed the Egyptians in spite of their lack of subtlety on the subject of bakshish.

Our little bit of Arabic got us a long way as well.

We began in Cairo-primarily making contact with Chemical Bank people and flew to Aswan where we stayed in the Cataract Hotel. It's beautiful-with fabulous gardens and view of the Nile and the feluccas. From Aswan we flew to Abu Simbel for the day-great view of Lake Nasser from the plane and it really does seem like you are going to the end of the earth. Of all the things we saw Abu Simbel was certainly the most dramatic-partly because of its location, overlooking the lake and its colossal statues. We had the hotel pack us a picnic which we ate by the lake. Lovely. Late in the afternoon we flew back to Aswan and got on our boat.

The cruise was so relaxing and there were lots of enjoyable people on our boat-quite a few Americans and all doing vastly different things. There were nice stretches of time where we sat on the deck and watched the scenery slide by-the considerable wildlife, villages and children running along the banks waving and shouting. On the way we made stops at Korn Ombo and Edfu--often taking horse drawn carriages to the temple sites-and certainly in Luxor as I'm sure you remember. When we arrived in Luxor we went on to Dendera (by boat) to Abydos-after we came back to Luxor we saw Karnak and Luxor temple as well as the West Bank. The tombs were most impressive of all I thought. Janet and John liked them best although they have truly loved this trip-their imaginations having been totally caught up in the whole thing.

As on most cruises there was the inevitable fancy dress evening and it was that night that J and J truly shone. Janet chose to go as a belly dancer and John made a last-minute decision to be King Tut (when he heard there would be prizes). After a great flurry of preparation (we even let Janet go to the beauty parlor to have her eyes made up professionally) I don't have to tell you who won prizes.

When the cruise finally ended we stayed on in Luxor for two more days (intending to go back to many of the sites-although in actuality we only made it back to a few). There were several bugs on the cruise decimating passenger health! Janet has the runs. I have some sort of flu and Peter feels better than he did yesterday. So our two days in Luxor were spent relaxing and seeing things as leisurely as possible. We stayed in the old Winter Palace which was enjoyable. Old fashioned rooms with high ceilings and fireplaces and a lovely garden.

And back to Cairo. Yesterday morning was spent in the museum-and having been to all the sites we could place each thing as we saw it. John, who usually cannot bear museums, loved it. It's certainly every bit as crammed and disorganized as I had heard it was but we were absolutely amazed when we saw one lovely statue from antiquity actually held together with pieces of Scotch tape! I had always thought of Egyptian art as very static and I have completely changed my mind now. The older pieces-particularly the pieces dating back to Djoser (step pyramid Saqqara) are tremendously expressive. I am really quite amazed and surprised-and impressed!

In the afternoon we finally investigated the Khan Kalili bazaar where we had great hopes of fascinating purchases.  I think, however, our eyes are getting a bit jaded to the Middle East- it's hard to find the quality amongst the profusion of tourist junk. The little back alleys and glimpses of Egyptian life were fascinating though. We strolled around for quite some time and in the end found an old wooden table stand for our Iranian rice tray. The stand it's on now is El Cheapo-that's about it except for the odd pieces of copper-not up to Iranian standards. I'd definitely come to Egypt for the culture!

And at last the pyramids today-I really was impressed with them and the desert beyond. Peter, characteristically, didn't think they were subtle enough! We both loved our earlier trip to Saqqara where the oldest step pyramid is located. The abut ending of brilliant green cultivation to desert is breathtaking!

All in all, a wonderful trip in spite of the fact we're ending it on an unhealthy note. We're also ending it a day early because Peter has to dash off to Saudi the day after we get home-and he has about two solid weeks of travelling after that!

So, will close-we're off to dinner!

Much love to you both. Please pass this along to Fred.

Love, Carol

February 1981

Dear Nancy and Jack,

We are on the last leg of our cruise on the Nile which has more than lived up to my best imaginings. It has been absolutely fascinating and the Egyptians are marvelous people. J and J are, of course, with us and our #1 and 2 ambassadors.

We started in Cairo-flew to Aswan., Abu, Simbel and are now back in Luxor after cruising for five days. Eventually back to Cairo and home to Bahrain. Never got cards off this Christmas-a frantic December but miss you and will write soon.

Love,

The Blybergs

February 22, 1981

Dear Mom and Dad,

Thank you for your thorough account of Uncle Spike's funeral-I have certainly thought of him and of Nana. I'm glad you thought she looked well. It's sad to think of Uncle Spike gone, even in view of his long and very productive life. He was a good man. He also had the distinction of being one of the few members of the family-that everyone loved! You are right about the fruitcake.

I did write Nana right away but got bogged down when I tried to mail it. Peter was in Dubai when the rain hit-torrents of it and nowhere for it to go. The entire idiotic driving population of Bahrain suddenly were without brakes and the rate of accidents soared! We ate out of the freezer. Our garden was an island surrounded by ten inches of water, now reduced to mud and muck. You can imagine what John looks like when he comes in from playing! I felt as though I was in a kayak, slugging along in my car and in view of the mud houses and birastis, it was really a picture of total misery. I'm almost embarrassed to admit our house didn't leak, most people were emptying buckets around the clock!

It has been a sad week for the Al Khalifa family as one of their members was recently killed in an automobile accident in Saudi and another is in serious condition in the hospital. Several of the Shaikas are friends of mine-several days before the accident, I had tea with one of them and we had pored through many albums of family pictures (fascinating) and so I felt obliged to join them in their "sitting." It is totally unlike the Western culture where family and friends try to be as discreet as possible. The ladies gather together daily and "sit," talking quietly and drinking tea and gawa. They wear no make-up at all and are dressed in traditional Bahraini clothing underneath the abaya which they do not remove. I met two of the Amir's sisters who could have been any one of the dozens of old women one sees in Muharraq every day. I was amazed by how pleased they were that I came! (I went twice, once to the hospital-where they sat watching over the injured man, who is getting a bit better-and the other time, to Shaika Haya's. It was her youngest brother who was killed and she is the one I know best.) Each time, the ladies patiently explained to me all the various relationships and details of the accident and the prognosis of Shaik Duage who is in the hospital. It was quite horrible since it happened in the desert and it was hours and hours before anyone helped them. In fact, the first of several passers-by refused to help at all, finally, after offering a huge amount of money, they were picked up.

On a happier note, I escorted a group of Bahraini young ladies (from the Manama Girl's School-with Shelby) to Muharraq for a tour of Siadi House (tomorrow, I am taking John's class.) Siadi House is a 150-year-old traditional Arab house which used to belong to a pearl merchant. It's beautiful and is the first attempt at restoration (of anything) in Bahrain. The girls loved it and were in such high spirits,just to be out. They know nothing of their own country since their entire life has been spent either at home or in school. They are delightful, intelligent and not one bit shy. Mostly, they wanted me to tell them about the evils of New York City! My answer to that was that if there are two stories in the newspaper side by side, one about a terrible murder and the other about a donation to charity-which do they read first? So they talked and talked and since we drove them in our own cars, they begged me to take the longest route back to school and stop at every light which might be turning red. Which I did.

I'm glad you liked our house! I think you'll like it even better on a warm sunny day. I admit, we just didn't have it in us to resist it. Plan to install a new L. L. Bean hammock next summer which I think Dad might like to put to use. Some day (en sha'allah) the little boat house by the road will be my studio. I just picked up some fairly fanciful things I had framed, hoping to put them in an art show I'm planning for May 22nd. Peter informs me he wants to keep it all so I am back at square one and can't figure out when I am going to have a chance to get some work done. This will really be a community art show but I am organizing it with Thackray's help and Wahab Koohegi, a local Bahraini artist. I've made arrangements to have it in a restaurant called "The Windtower." It is, in fact, an old windtower and it is a charming place. It's built around a huge central courtyard which is where we will display all the works. In a spate of very fast talking, I managed to talk them into letting us nail the living daylights out of their walls and closing to the general public that evening and serving wine and cheese. Very much like last year which was so successful.

Last night the American community assembled at the Holiday Inn to celebrate an early 4th of July and George Washington's birthday (his 250th)-a real shindig of the first order. They even had Mount Rushmore carved in lard-which toward the end of the evening began to take on a very greasy adolescent appearance. But a sincere effort, every hotel in Bahrain has its very own resident lard carver. The Trackwells and Hepburns were there and all send both of you their love.

We finally have some concrete R & R plans. Over the Easter holiday we will be going to Spain and Morocco-in the reverse order. I have always wanted to see Marrakesh and Fez!

While in Spain, we will also attend a bank conference (or Peter will) in Seville. Nice that we can combine it all. J and J are going too, I think they will like this trip. Hopefully, we will get to see more of Spain. All the reservations in Morocco have already been made.

Now to get Janet better. She's on penicillin for a case of strep throat. She feels better now but earlier this week, I sat up with her all night as she was so miserable. I took her to the International Hospital, where they have, at last, a Western pediatrician. I liked him. He went through the motions of doing a culture but said he didn't think the hospital lab could actually get their act together to grow it. I laughed and remarked that it was interesting he had come to that conclusion after just seven weeks in Bahrain. With a grimace, he said he'd come to that conclusion after one week. Hope he won't get too discouraged and leave.

It must be nice to stay put in Florida for a change and how marvelous you are out playing golf (and not feeling like a beginner!) Lovely too, that the house needs some sprucing-it's no fun when it's all done. There's nothing like a little potential!

Looking at your letter, I realize it was written on the day Jennifer Grace was born. I am sure the Beans are fairly popping (isn't that a wonderful sentence!) Janet sent us an announcement and I trust all went well and mother and child are in good health. One more great grandchild for Nana!

Must go and collect my little mob of children from school. There is a big Canadian reception tonight (I haven't figured out what it's for) but I bet there will be large lard maple leaves!

Miss you! Lots of love! Carol

The children's report cards came home today. Janet, to quote: "Effort and quiet enthusiasm combine to produce results of fine quality." and,"... her work often shows great depth."

John: "Has good general knowledge and is interested in all topic work." They are, however, appalled by his handwriting. P.E.-"Very adventurous and agile."

April 3, 1981

Dear Marjorie and Arne,

Many thanks for your Easter card-needless to say in our part of the world we're not exactly overwhelmed with the spirit of Christian holidays! We love the reminders from home­ in Bahrain, it's business as usual on Easter. We're adaptable-but I do find that hard to get used to!

I'm enclosing a clipping-a review actually of my friend Valerie Pearson. We have worked on so many different things together in Bahrain and she is really special. Valerie (English) and her husband, Bill (American), have a condominium in Marco and will probably be there sometime this spring. It's given them your phone number and address so hopefully you'll have a chance to meet them. They've just left Bahrain and will be moving to Saudi soon.

Besides everything else Val's done, she's directed or acted in many of the theatrical events in Bahrain. We were crushed to see them go!

Peter is feeling terrible about not writing-in his defense I can only say he works harder than anyone I know! He's done far more travelling this year (Emirates, Saudi etc.) and fortunately loves the mutton grabs (for which he trained so arduously at "Chez Bear") and getting to know many of the old Bedu families. It takes a while to establish these relationships and this year is a turning point-which is why he's busier than ever!

We were recently at a dinner party where I was seated between two Saudis (my experience, to date being more liberal Gulf Arabs) and I must say it was an interesting experience. Heaven knows what they thought! It took awhile to break the ice (my being a dreadful Western woman allowed out of the house!) but after a while the conversation was quite lively-they are so incredibly sharir-1 thoroughly enjoyed it-as long as you don't think too much about what it is like being a women in Saudi-the next best thing to a goat etc.

We took a fabulous trip to Egypt in January. We began in Cairo, which wasn't really as bad as many people say (but we already knew Tehran). From Cairo we flew to Aswan which is beautiful. From there we made a short hop to Abu Simbel-one of the most dramatic temples in Egypt. You can see it from the air as you fly in and it is breathtaking, situated by Lake Nasr.

We stayed at the Cataract Hotel in Aswan-the same hotel in "Death on the Nile"-wish we could have stayed longer but we had our boat to catch for the trip down the Nile which is really a wonderful thing to do. It's very relaxing-sitting on the deck, sipping Turkish coffee watching the scenery slide by. The only bad part is the good-Egyptian cuisine is on a par with the junk you eat along the highway in the U.S. in those wretched restaurants! This is true no matter where you are in Egypt. We all came home slightly thinner. The sights along the way are the most thrilling and well worth the hassles of travelling in that part of the world-the best being the tombs in Luxor. The only thing I can say is that they are overwhelming-as is Karnak and the temple of Luxor-the stuff of the midnight movies on Saturday night! J and J loved this triJr-Or what could be better than tombs, pyramids and mummies! John didn't mind being dragged around the Cairo museum-which is one big fabulous mess. Disorganized in the extreme! One lovely statue, I recall was held together with Scotch tape!

We spent a day in Giza seeing the pyramids-actually only going inside one of them.

It's pretty horrid inside with its 5,000-year-old stale air-Janet threatened to throw up and I told her if she did-she'd ruin tourism in Egypt-but then I couldn't get her out because there was a sudden electrical failure and I want to tell you-it is dark in there! Fortunately we finally got her out without any mishap-but she flatly refused to go in any more.

There is fascinating shopping in Egypt but we did very little-partly because we wanted to spend our time seeing things and also because you have to bargain so hard just to get them down to a reasonable price-you could never get a fair price. An Iraqi friend of ours bought some beautiful things-but it's hopeless for a Westerner-there's been too many tourists-who don't bargain at all.

And back to Bahrain. For a small little island there is an incredible amount of activity. I am still working very hard for the American Women's Auxiliary-on membership this year.

What I enjoy most, however, is a program for the schoolchildren sponsored by the Archaeology Society. We show the children how an archeologist works, take them out to the digs here, or take them to old Arab houses-explain what the rooms were used for, how they were built etc. Sometimes we create an Arab majlis* in the classroom (*sitting room) and give them Arabic coffee, tea and sweets and dress them up in traditional Arab clothing. When I began doing this, I didn't know much more than they did! Most of the children we teach are between 7-11 but there are some high school classes as well.

J and J are both fine-and I'll let Peter continue from here!

Much love, C

Egypt is really made for children, particularly Upper Egypt-things to climb up, under, into and over, plus camels, donkeys, horses, cats, dogs, etc. It was easy to keep them interested. They had several children's books on Egypt and after reading them to be able to go and see the places for themselves was fascinating. Janet is now at the age where it is beginning to mean something more than just a few old buildings to be endured. John was obsessed with the mummies. We even went to the sound and light show at Karnak which is one of the most impressive things ever, since you walk through the ruins as they run the show. It was a beautiful clear, cold night with a half moon and brilliant stars. To walk through the ruins by moonlight was really an experience.

We wrote everywhere in Upper Egypt by horse drawn carriages and both Janet and John had opportunities to drive the carriages by themselves.

We all needed to get away at that point since we had an extremely busy time just prior to Christmas and Christmas was fun but hectic. We had 12 for Christmas dinner, including two sailors from one of the Nancy ships that was in dock here at the time. A lot of fun and people dropped by afterwards for a drink. New Year's we went out to a local club with some friends. It was fun dinner and dancing, but somewhat confusing with no one quite sure which party they were with. In any event, at a little after 12 it began to rain, the first rain since last March. An auspicious beginning to the New Year. It has rained more this winter than last, in fact we had a real thunderstorm last week which is fairly late in the year.

Business has been good this year and it looks as if it should be a very busy year. It does however mean much more travel which gets tiring very quickly. Somehow the glamour and excitement of international banking fades quickly after two or three trips. It is fun to meet the different people and to get a feeling for what is going on in this part of the world. Your feel is never precise but every once in a while you begin to feel as if you are getting below the surface.

In Iran it came a bit quicker, here with responsibility for 14 countries it takes longer to try and understand each. And each is so different.

Right now the weather is getting warmer and we have been to the beach a few times. I realize it would be warm to someone coming from Canada but you develop very thin blood out here so that when it gets into the 50°s or 60°s it feels very chilly. Right now it is springtime, in the 80°s and really lovely. Yesterday we went out to spear crabs down int eh south of the island. It was a little too rough and there was a sandstorm blowing so the visibility was not good. But we managed to get about two dozen small ones, which some friends of ours who own a local restaurant had cooked, both stuffed and deep fried and we sat outside and at them together with some pan-fried bean sprouts and soup and beer. It was fun but again cold last night.

I am enclosing some pictures from last summer as well as some of our trip to Egypt.

Well, at least I got him to write a few lines! I'd better finish this up since Peter just left for Saudi for a week. Terrible to see him go because he has a rotten cold--egged on by some fairly chilly crabbing. Being in the midst of a sandstorm blowing from Saudi is an amazing thing-and the sand, like powder, coats everything-you cannot imagine the joy of a shower until you've been out in one of those! Anyway, the crabs were fabulous-prepared in the Thai manner as our friends with the restaurant are an American (wife)-Thai (husband) combination. Yichai is actually an architect and his wife, Lee, runs the restaurant which is also a plant shop cum boutique-both of them extremely creative. For a small place, I am always amazed at the talent to be found here!

I will close this up and make an attempt to get it in the pouch!

Love to all, Carol

April 4, 1981

Dear Fred,

At least I talked to you on the phone over Christmas-would you believe I'm still plugging away-answering cards! I have to admit we were distracted in January with our trip to Egypt. We still have Africa on the back burner-why don't you send us the dates you can go?! Next January would be the best time-the weather is best then. Some friends of ours went after Christmas and had a fabulous time, their photographs are terrific!

Egypt was fabulous although we hit an unusual cold spell so instead of swimming in Aswan, we sat bundled up slugging down Turkish coffees. The Germans were the only ones in the pool and even they were cold! Aswan is lovely and it is there that the Nile is most beautiful, twisting around rock formations, lined with brilliant green cultivated land and the desert beyond. Feluccas sailing everywhere. On one island there is a nearly perfectly preserved temple and we hired a small boy's boat and he took us out there-just beyond is the high dam. Gorgeous!

Actually we began in Cairo-not a terribly pleasant place, but not as bad as we had been told it was. There is certainly a great deal to see there-pyramids of Giza, the city of Memphis (not much of that-but at least we've been), the oldest step pyramid at Saqqara-we barely touched the old Islamic part of the city-there just wasn't time, and of course the museum­ crammed full and disorganized beyond belief. One priceless statue was held together with Scotch tape and maids were running around swatting dust off the rest. From Cairo we flew to Aswan and from there hopped over by plane to Abu Simbel, situated by Lake Nasr and probably the most dramatic temple in Egypt. We also got on our boat in Aswan for our trip down the Nile-not exactly up to par with "Death on the Nile" but a terrific experience and the scenery hasn't changed at all. Except for Cairo, I doubt Egypt has changed much in the last 100 years. We were even taking horse drawn carriages to see the sights in Luxor. The boat trip is five days and it is really the most relaxing and efficient way to see things. All life takes place on the banks of the Nile-and Peter got some fabulous pictures with a telephoto lens. Beyond the banks-just miles and miles of sand, I've never seen anything like it. We stayed on in Luxor at the end of our boat trip----it's really a very pretty city with really only one main street. The Valley of the Kings is there, on the west bank and of course King Tut's tomb (hardly remarkable) but the other tombs are breathtaking-perhaps the most impressive things to see in Egypt. Also Karnak which is so vast we had to go back several times to see it all. I've left out so much-some day we'll bore you with our slides.

We were scarcely back in Bahrain when Peter started what seems to be nonstop business trips-Saudi, Emirates, Kuwait etc. He does quite well with these old Bedouin families at their "mutton grabs"-after all he had intensive training at "Chez Bear"! He knows instinctively how to get in there with his right hand to rip out great chunks of flesh. Loves it. I think it's a vicious circle-the better he gets to know them-the more he has to go back to see them! He left again this afternoon and was looking forward to a trip to a Saudi dairy farm-can you imagine! The last trip he watched them make trash bags, although with all the litter in this part of the world, I doubt many people use them. I don't think the old "throw it over the wall" mentality will ever be erased! I hated to see him go this time because he has a rotten cold-egged on by a crab spearing expedition we recently went on. It was wildly windy and chilly on the beach since a sandstorm from Saudi blew up. The fine powdery sand permeates everything and that is when you truly appreciate a shower like you never have before! We went with some friends, a Thai-American couple who have a plant shop/boutique/restaurant here in Bahrain and their cook rustled up a feast with our catch! We sat in the back of the shop amidst all the broken pots and made pigs of ourselves-Lee and Vichai had put a "gone fishin"' sign in the window!

Most of the time I am so frantically busy that once a month I literally sleep through a Friday to catch up on my rest. Peter is extremely nice about that. I am still working with the American Women's Auxiliary---on membership this year, organizing a children's art show, another for adults and then my favorite thing which is teaching Bahraini culture to schoolchildren. Most of the students are between 7-11 (have done Janet's class) but some are high school age. This is in connection with the Archaeology Society and we take them out to the digs (there are over I 00,000 burial mounds in Bahrain about 5,000 years old), to the museum, sometimes we create a majlis* in the classroom(* Arab sitting room) and serve the children Arabic coffee and tea and sweets and dress them in traditional Arab costume-the children love it-and I love doing it. When I began I didn't know much more than they did-now I am familiar with many of the old houses and palaces here and much more. We cover about five schools and would like to do more but we don't have enough people.

Since this is a rare afternoon at home, I'd best do a few chores-if only to water the plants!

Do write!!! I miss you-we're going to be in Maine in July-renting a house. Come stay with us.

I love you, Carol

April 10, 1981

Dear Mom and Dad,

Felt terrible when I received your letter yesterday-and I still hadn't written! I'll never understand why Bahrain is so hectic-I almost welcome the hot weather when everything comes to a halt.

It was so good to see you and it was John, the day after you left, who broke down and cried and cried-he was so devastated. That was when they both realized how much they missed you.

Thank you for my jade necklace! Every time I wear it I receive dozens of compliments. The revolution may messed up my silk dress but there are other things that suddenly come alive when I'm wearing the necklace.

We had a very nice Easter. (Although Peter worked--one of the hardest things to get used to living in this part of the world!) We had an early start with eggs in the garden and the "Bahraini Easter bunny" made a typical Middle Eastern mess by scattering lettuce and celery all over the entire downstairs-but redeemed himself by bringing two finches in a pretty bamboo cage. When the children work up they could hear scratching and pecking and were convinced it was the E.B. himself! Later in the morning J and J and I went to church at St. Christopher's and in the afternoon the Bankers' Club had a big children's party so they had a big day. Peter had a busy three days boarding the birds in his office and I wasn't too popular the A.M. there was one casualty and he came in only to discover ants crawling all over his bookcase and wall. (Naturally it was the will of God!) Buying a bird in the U.S. is a relatively ordinary affair-not so here! Bahrainis take birds very seriously-the courtesies and conversations involved in this escapade were most enjoyable. And that was Easter 1980.

You know people are really lamenting Dad's retirement-so I overheard at a cocktail party and that they weren't at all sure what things would be like under Mr. McKinley... and then some.

All your purchases sound spectacular-you are such a creative consumer, Mother! We just acquired an old pearl chest. Ironically I saw it some time ago-and decided not to hassle Peter-but he had seen it too, on his own, and brought it home last night!

I'm glad Rebecca is getting married-and on her own terms. A woman with a career planning her own wedding isn't in the least unusual-how nice she's so separate and self-reliant. I truly wish her all the best-I think she's charming and at great odds, has finally developed her own style. Yay Beck!

The Amir passed us in his car on the way to his beach the day before yesterday. He was awfully cute because when he saw the children he smiled and waved wildly. When we got there he was already sitting on his veranda-John, quite excited, went over to say hello-I did not since he was entertaining two luscious ladies over coffee. It's a beautiful beach but boy did we get burned-in spite of sunscreens, hats and shirts!

Recently I arranged a tour and discussion of the experimental gardens here. Sidiq Al Alawi is the director and we have since become good friends. He's a year older than Peter, divorced and lives at the end of the Budaiya road in a simple but thoroughly charming house set in one of the most spectacular gardens I've seen in Bahrain. When we were there earlier this week Sidiq produced volumes of old (goot) publications which the three of us poured over for hours and Sidiq filling us in on lots of unwritten Bahraini history. The three of us sat cross legged on his living room floor sipping cold beers and P and I had one of the nicest times here that we've ever had. Some of the statistics were hilarious-in 1937 more people went to the local hospital for stitches than circumcisions, there were 18 skin grafts. Approximately 15 years ago there were 1,000 expats-now there are 150,000. I'd say these people have been zapped!

Considering that onslaught in such a conservative culture-these people are remarkably adaptable and certainly very good hosts! Old pictures of Manama were amazing-one photo even showed how the water came up to the Bab Al Bahrain Incidentally the word Bahr means sea in Arabic and the suffix "ain" means two. Thus Bahrain.

Next week will be incredibly busy as we are beginning 10 days of Red Crescent bazaar. Red Crescent is the Muslim answer to Red Cross and the bazaar is held every two years to raise money for the handicapped. The entire island is involved and I will be putting in many shifts at one of the American booths. Getting volunteers is a trial-there are not that many of us!

Shortly after you left, Bob Pelletreau* had his farewell reception and everyone is sorry to see him go. The reception was held in the embassy garden and it was quite beautiful but I had to laugh because punctually at 9:00 the band played the National Anthem and everyone definitely knew it was time to go home. Peter and I thought-pretty crafty but we'd never get away with it!

We surely miss you and we all send lots and lots of love!

Carol

*American Ambassador

April 14, 1981

Dear Nancy and Jack,

I haven't a clue when I last wrote-I am sure it was quite some time ago! I still have your Christmas card which means we have some catching up to do although I vaguely remember sending postcards from Egypt with promises to write soon.

First things first, please send along congratulations to Marnie-and the tickled grandparents. I bet there's a backlog of snapshots bogging down the U.S. Mail System like never before!

I'm looking at your last question on your card-"How does the Middle East view Reagan's approaching Presidency?" Well, they're all sitting back. The only thing these people really like about the U.S. is the shopping. Strangely enough, very little has been said about the assassination attempt-people seem to have a "So what else is new?" attitude. How is it in the States? Peter knows Timothy McCarthy, the Secret Service agent who was shot.

It took us a while to recover from our trip to Egypt sine we all came home with a particularly delightful variety of flu that was going around Cairo at the time when one end got better, the other seemed to fall apart. The trip, however, was super from everybody's point of view-especially Janet and John's. I have never seen them more fascinated and in fact the things to see in Egypt are spectacular. The boat trip on the Nile is a wonderful way to see the sights, as well as the easiest way since some places are pretty difficult to get to-just coordinating reservations and transportation in Egypt can be a nightmare. We started in Cairo which is not the most pleasant city in the world, but extremely interesting and necessary to see because there is so much there-particularly the Museum-an unholy mess of a place. We flew to Aswan and hopped up to Abu Simbel which is the most dramatic temple in Egypt-Karnak is bigger but doesn't have the same impact! Got on our boat in Aswan for a five-day cruise down the Nile-the scenery is marvelous and probably hasn't changed much in the last 100 years.

With a telephoto lens you can pick up all manner of the life taking place along the banks of the Nile. The boat stops at various places along the way but you are not terribly rushed so it was really pleasant. We also had an interesting mixed bag of fellow passengers to make the cruise even more lively. Quite a few Americans, most of them having just come from Israel.

Eventually we ended up in Luxor and the Valley of the Kings etc. It's true that King Tut's tomb is nothing special but the others are breathtaking. Truly the most incredible thing I've seen in my life. In some, the paintings are so fresh, they could have been done yesterday! And ultimately back to Cairo to pick up on the sights we missed earlier although that's when we began to get sick so we dragged through that part.

As soon as we got back, Peter began doing a lot of travelling-he's away now­ Saudi/Kuwait. He enjoys the Bedu families, particularly as he gets to know them better and jumps into their "mutton grabs" wholeheartedly. It seems like he's over there at least part of every week. I hated to see him go this last time as he left with a rotten cold egged by a crab spearing expedition we recently went on with friends. It can still be very chilly here on the beach and a sandstorm blew up from Saudi that particular day-whipping winds and you really appreciate the value of a shower for the first time!

The people we went with are very good friends and heading your way-and they will call you. Lee (wife) and Vichai (husband) Chinalai will be moving to N.Y. sometime this summer. Vichai is Thai, an architect and Lee has been in business in Bahrain with one of the most creative plant shop/restaurants I've ever seen. Lee is American. They've collected a formidable number of Persian carpets and old Bahraini furniture to bring back to the States to sell-Vichai will probably be working as an architect but whatever they cook up when they get back will probably be pretty special. Anyway, out of the blue, Lee asked me today if I knew of any old barns in the

N.Y. area they could redo. Of course, I did, I said! Whatever else, I really want you to meet them. As they are so gentle, creative and a unique combination of talent. Their three children, Puff, Perri and infant Chat will steal your heart. I can hardly bear tFie thought of having them go.

Our new household addition is a slightly flamboyant looking second-hand piano for John who seems to be the musical one in the family. It has taken months to find one as they are in pretty short supply in Bahrain-strictly by word of mouth. I think John thought we'd never find one-the look of awe on his face was something to see when he came home from school and discovered it in the house!

Janet's first love is still ballet but as usual, she's into a dozen other things as well. She's a formidable reader, like her father.

Both children have grown tremendously this year. You won't believe it when you see them.

We are still working on summer plans-but as of now we hope to rent a cottage in Maine for the month of July-at the same time we would like to look around and buy our own as we desperately need a place that is just ours and it is terrible to keep dragging J and J everywhere each summer. We will be in Connecticut too-but I am not sure just when. I'll let you know. In the meantime, if you can steal a few days in July to spend with us in Maine... please try!

I'm busy constantly-which is why people seldom hear from us. I'm still doing a lot with the American Women's Auxiliary but what I enjoy most is the program of teaching Bahraini culture and history to schoolchildren here-it's sponsored by the Archaeology Society. We take the children to old Arab houses, out to the digs, we create a majlis (sitting room) in the classroom and serve Arabic coffee and tea and dress them in traditional costume-just to name a few. The children love it and so do I! When I began I didn't know much more than they did! It has enabled me to see things in Bahrain I never would have seen otherwise. We cover about five schools with most of the children between 7-11 but we have some high school classes as well.

Do keep in touch-think about Maine!

Love, Carol